Winter storms are clashing with the might of El Niño, causing high-to-dangerous surf along the Central Coast. That being said, surfing in the winter is still possible if the right precautions are taken, according to experts and local surfers.
In February, coastal flooding, high surf and high wind advisories were issued for San Luis Obispo Country as a result of dangerous winter storms. In addition to the closure of Highway 1, multiple water rescues were made in the Salinas River.
El Niño, a natural climate phenomenon characterized by warming sea surface temperatures in the Pacific, also contributed to high sea levels, flooding and storms here along the California Coast this year.
Despite these conditions, winter waves are “surprisingly rideable,” yet there are “not many takers,” said John Lucas, a surfer of 17 years and an employee at Wavelengths Surf Shop in Morro Bay.
While the winter swells bring larger waves than the summer, “the conditions can deteriorate quickly,” Lucas explained.
Storms often come with murky, cold water; rain; and offshore winds that deter surfers.
When deciding to surf, Lucas has a “clear line in the sand with what [he’s] comfortable As a rental shop, Wavelengths makes decisions that prioritize their customers’ safety. When conditions get potentially dangerous, they call off all rentals, stated Lucas.
These decisions are made to prevent situations where rescues are necessary, broken equipment and to ensure a “positive experience” for renting customers, he said.
As a shop, they Lucas added that Wavelengths also tries to maintain a close and friendly relationship with the local Coast Guard, he said.
Phillip Hauser, Petty Officer Second Class for the U.S. Coast Guard Station in Morro Bay, reminded the public that they are here to help.
“If they have any questions, please call us,” he said.
The Morro Bay Coast Guard also provides information regarding surf conditions, for both water vessels and surfers. The Cape San Martin bouy, located 55 nautical miles offshore, and the Diablo Canyon bouy, closer to Morro Bay, offer information about nearing swells. They show wave height, swell direction and wind speed and direction.
According to Hauser, northwest swell is common, but a west swell usually means higher conditions. Dangerous weather and waves are usually observed at 10 feet.
Before surfing, “I definitely pay close attention to the buoys,” Lucas said.
For surfers assessing the conditions, Hauser suggests the risk analysis process used by the Coast Guards: “Tactical pause, identify risk, assess risk, implement controls, monitor and reevaluate.”
While the Coast Guard is always an available reference, “If you have that gut feeling, take a step back,” Hauser said. “Just remember you are responsible for your safety too.”
Navigating these conditions is nothing new for agricultural business freshman Wiley Daniel, a long-time surfer. Daniel is a member of the Cal Poly Surf Team. The surf team’s winter season doesn’t have as many events, but does have more competitions, Daniel said. Due to this, Daniel is always in the water, surfing two to three times a week and up to six days in a week when conditions are right, he said.
Daniel uses a variety of sources to assess the surf. He uses Surfline as his main swell indicator and Windy for wind conditions, along with the weather app and the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration’s (NOAA) website.
“Nothing is gonna be perfect, but you can get a good idea,” he said.
For favorable large conditions, Daniel looks for over a 12-second swell interval, between 3.5 and 8-foot readings on the buoys and wind below ten knots from the south or west, he said.
Once in the water, Daniel looks out for potential dangers like rip currents.
“It might not look that bad… next thing you know you are 250 yards down the beach,” he said.
Once, Daniel was stuck in a riptide for an hour straight, got swept away and was saved by a big swell.
To escape a rip current, the National Weather Service advises that you swim along the shoreline until you escape the pull of the current.
Sharks, common to the central coast, are also on Daniel’s mind while he surfs.
Just three years ago, a bodyboarder was killed by a great white shark in Morro Bay.
If possible, he prefers someone is outside of him. Daniel also recommended solo surfers stay a bit farther in than they would if they were surfing with others.
Daniel’s teammate, bioresource and agricultural engineering freshman Merrick Hemmings, takes his preparation even further due to a close call he had back home. After his leash broke from a 25-foot wave at the Hawaiian surf spot “Himalayas” and found himself without his board, he had to be rescued by jet ski.
“I fully thought I was gonna black out,” he said. “On the jet ski, I was breathing for my life.”
In addition to having the right equipment, Hemmings learned he needed to work on his breathing technique for when the waves dragged him under. Now, he mimics a big wave hold at the lap pool by doing a 25-meter swim in a single breath, immediately following a 1000-meter swim.
“When you pull up to the beach and the waves are way past your limit, don’t even think about going out,” he said.
Hemming’s recommendation was to go to a place with less swell like Pismo, Avila or Studios.
“Aim for a place that isn’t going to magnify swell,” Hemmings said.
Some surf spots have constantly changing wave patterns. SLO primarily has beach breaks, so storms can significantly change the sandbars, creating shifting channels and different breaks, Hemmings said.
According to Daniel, new surfers should start with the right equipment. This starts with getting a good wetsuit and booties to be comfortable in the water.
He emphasized getting a board that is right for your skill level, not something so small that you can’t paddle. Surfing with someone who is more experienced or has gone out more is also a good idea, he said.
For Lucas, “the biggest thing is don’t surf alone,” he said. “[It’s] always nice to have company.”
Before going into the water, he also urged new surfers to “do a little homework.”
Watching the lineup for etiquette, where to sit and where to paddle out are all important, Lucas said. Like driving a car, there are rules like the right of way that a surfer must know before they go out, he added.
Aside from the rules, the conditions and the equipment, it is important to remember the real goal of surfing, according to Daniel.
“[It’s] really fun to be in the water,” Daniel said. “Being in the ocean energizes you. All levels of experience can have fun with it.”